1899 black-white bathing suit

So the right one is my main inspriation. 

I fell in love with this bathing suit, I don´t now how long ago, but it is a time ago. There are beside this picture two more of pictures of these young people. I show one other picture. 

Finding the real sources of these pictures was a real pain in the *ss. Because the cut of the dresses speak against the data I have found. The data I have found are between 1897 and 1899. I found where they where taken. Coney island. 












 



So here are a few pictures of mine version and the bathing suits my friends made and wore. 

As a group we wore all different bathing suits from different time periods. From 1890 till 1920's. Most of us made are bathing suits our self. Only one friend hadn't the time to make one so she borrowed from a friend who also made the life guard bathing suit for her boyfriend. Who has now three bathing suits at home.

It was a lot ot of fun to wear it, and I find it a pitty I had only that day this year to wear it. I hope to enjoy it coming year more, and also have time to made a bathing corset as wel. 

I wore it with my old corset who was deeply in need for replacement. 

So, let me see. what can I tell about the dress.. 

I drafted most of myself or redrafted patterns I already had.

The cap and bolero where me own addition. The cap because I felt my bathing suit needed a cap. And the bolero was for more practical reason. I burn very fast and so I could spare my shoulders from the sun, also if it was a bit windy, it would help to. Altough, a bolero is not really HA for an bathing suit. But I really hate to be burnt.











The entire thing is made from cotton, I considered wool, but I wanted to wash it normally. 
I began to make the bloomers. Perhapes these are only of all the pieces I dind't draw myself or change a pattern for. I used simplicity 2777. I also couldn't see any proof on the original pictures of bloomers under the young lady's bathing suit. But it was for me a logical assumption. Because there was no visual proof I had to improvise how it would look. But even then, I wanted some sort of pants under my skirt. For reasons above.... (see picture when turning) 
So a bloomer was for me a must have. 

 After I finished the bloomers I began with the skirt. I drafted the pattern myself. It went pretty fast together, the most time was spend on the stripes. 

This is the front view, in these pictures the skirt isn't finished yet. I originally wanted a systems with buttons on the waistband of the bloomers and buttonholes in the waistbands of the skirt and bodice, so if I decided to go for a real bathing experience, the pieces wouldn't shift of ride up when bathing. But because of time shortness for the event where I made it for. I eventually sewed the bodice to the skirt waistband en left the button system for what it was for now. 
I want to redo that part of the costume when I want to go bathing.

This is the back view. I originally wanted also some pockets in the skirt... but I stept away from that idea, sure pockets are very handy at an day event. But I really want to bath in this thing to... and bathing in something with slip pockets felt..... weird. 


I chosed for the colors with black and white, not necessarily because that in the picture the bathing suits looked like it was black and white. I know that black and white pictures can be misleading and that the original bathing suit could be made from total different colors. But I liked the idea of an white and black bathing suit. I had made lately so much things in blue for the 1890's, that I wanted something in other colors. And black was for me so long ago, that I choose for how the pictures looked like. 

 After finishing the skirt I went through with the bodice. I altered an pattern I already had in stash. Butterick 3765. The back is closed with black cloth buttons, I chose for that for a bit more contrast at the back. Other wise it was a bit plain. 

The front has an fake front for the stripes. The bodice it sewed to the waistband from the skirt for now.

After finishing the bodice the last importent piece for the suit to complete the original look was the belt. There was nothing difficult to make. After some studying the photo's I saw in the picture that I didn't show here, what was a side stand, a hint of sashes. So I chose for a closing that I could tie in to a bow.

The bolero is a mix of two patterns simplicity 1819. Where I used the bodice of the bolero and butterick 3417 Where I used the ruffled sleeve and shorten the three-quarters sleeves in to a small pouf sleeve.

Made a cap with a rosette. Making one was a lot of fun. I think I gonna make some more rosettes in the future.

Even the bathing shoes where self made. I wanted to try something I didn't do before. They weren't that good, but for a first try to make something close to shoes I'm not gonna complain.

So I wanted to update this blog a couple of times before new year, But I don't think that is gonna happen after this post. So I wish everyone a happy new year and till 2018!!

going vintage

It is almost a year ago that I decided to change my garderobe. Not only because I weare the same old clothes since I was 15-17, Yes I'm very frugal, and yes Sometimes I bought something new, but still, there are things that I have, and still weare from another decade, haha. Not old enough to beeing vintage. 

But after almost a year when I decided, it going very slow to change the old with the new-old. I have an small wallet, so buying new shoes and other stuff to make the picture compleet, I don't have. I have 2 pair of shoes that are vintage appropriate, one pair of heels and a pair of flat oxfords. For now it is alright, but for upcoming summer I like to see a pair of sandals. Later on that. 

I began my new garderobe with new pants and a flower skirt, this in 1930'- 1940's style. these where already made clothes, only the skirt I made some adjusments to look more 1945's 

So this was the skirt I found in a second hand shop and made only an adjusment on the front. 

You see, like the skirts on the right picture, I stiched the pleated front for a part sewn up.

For the top, I came a cross this picture online, when I was researching for 1940's blouses and tops. It was the drindl top in the middle what took my intrest, because I had already an high drindl top in my closet. So for me first blouse I was settled for the first combination of last spring. 











 



Soon I found a shop close by my previous appartment where the sold new retro clothes, for me It was a little bit to much pastel and baby collors ( I like more darker colours, still a bit a gothic haha) , but there I found my first 1940's pants and heels. Till today, these pants are my favorite piece I wear. 

The shoes I bought from my birthday money, come from an american company, you can find more on there website http://shop.misslfire.com/vintage-inspired-shoes/womens-shoes/Bernie?colour=black

I find it a pity they don't deliver private in Belgium of the Netherlands. 

In the meantime, I was looking and collect vintage and new vintage patterns, because the hole part of this was that I could make my one clothes. 

 

So I began last spring with the first two things. The simplicity 3688 skirt, the fabric that I had used was a dissapointment, so I don't think I gonna ever wear it. But the reviews of the skirt, pants and blouse are very good, so I will give the skirt another try with another better fabric. I'm also planning to make the jacket from the pattern, but finding reviews of it is very difficult. Only the adaptation of American Duchess was nice to read, okay, hers is more based on an original 1935 pattern. 

I want to try the blouse and pants as well, but for pants I find another great pattern. 

Nope! Nope! Nope! I don't like how the skirt is falling, So The skirt can go in an dark place in my closet and come out when he knows what he did wrong. 

For the blouse, I wear it here, but after good looking I wasn't happy how it felt on the back and front. My torso is little bit short in compering with my legs, and entirelly that piece from shoulder to buste. So the result was a baggy back, not the smooth version that you know of the simplicity 1590 

So I altered the shoulder line and the problem was solved, only it took me an half year before I had make the change on the blouse. 


But now I need a new skirt for under the blouse, because these typical shoulder line is not something from the early 1940's but made he's entry when the New Look in 1948 appeared. I need to make a total different skirt than the skirt I made in the picture above. The simplicity 3688 pattern is an remake off an original from the year 1941, mid war when fabric was short. So To match the blouse, there is need for a more voluminous skirt. 

 Here is the blouse altered. It fits now. 


It is made from two fabrics, the under fabric is an very good well kept, around 50 year old ecru white silk. This fabric got I from a friendly lady in my village and how follows me for my costumes. I was very suprised when shee gave me the fabric, because is was more than a few metres.

After 1948 the fashion changed repidly, the skirts were again longer because there was more fabric again. With the war years there was almost nothing left and it took mostly a year after war before this was changed. 

I took this picture because it is a good example, for the shoulder line, skirt lenght and fulness. 











 


 Here another example from the shoulder line and the longer skirts. 
I like the drop off shoulder line very much, I hope I have soon a machting skirt with it, perhaps maybe with christmas.













In the summer I found this blouse in the same second hand shop as where I found my flower skirt, It had the same typical shoulder line as, the shown above pictures. 

I'm planning to make some marine blue  shorts from the wearing history smooth sailing pattern for this blouse. 

And because I was more planning to make some shorts because I have only one pair off short pants... and he is also to big, I want some more off these shorts. 

I finished yesterday, the first pair as try out. 

 I used the Wearing History smooth sailing sport tog 1930's pattern, within is a blouse and pants, with an option for shorts and a belt. 

Because I only found reviews of the long pants and the blouse I dind't know how the shorts look like when finished. 

The fit from the pants is everywhere I looked discribed as "the best pants ever!" 

And yes, it is true. Even because mine are short, the fitting is ridiculous perfect! 

So these are mine short pants, the first pair. I choose a pinstrepe because if failed, pinstrepe I can find everywhere. These fabrics I had already in my stash, and because I have a fine orange-red tartan waiting at this moment to be made as the second pair of shorts, I dind't want to fail the tartan because I can't find it anymore. 



I chose for the buttons because it make it a little bit more innocent and less boring. I made a litte adjusment, I wanted pockets (duh), So these pants have pockets. In the original pattern there are no pockets, what can seen as an minus point, but drawing some pockets en cut a point of your pattern is not so difficult. 

I can't wait to make more of these pants, and very curious for the blouse. 

This tartan would be the second pair of upcoming shorts :)















So this is what I have got ready, not very much, but is an beginning. Because winter is half trough when I have the time to make something, I though let begin with the summer clothes, then you have youre summer closet ready. 

So hopily until next time. 

Greets Jessie.

1898 sailor style dress

 

Good... This project was made this spring in may-june for a summer evenement in july. This was the Belle Epoque weekend in the zoo of Antwerp. I know, it is not very relevant, but i'm a little bit proud of this dress and if you don't mind, i would share it with pleasure. 

Here are some pictures of the result. this pics are made in the zoo and in Lisse (nl) 

Pictures of how i made it follow later on below this part of the post ;)

photographer: Geert Spoor

Photographer: Paul Hallmann

Photographer: Henk Van Rijssen

Photographer: Bart Kools Models: me, Juul Thijssen, Merit van Gelder, Pedro Konijn

  

 So for the making part i have a few pictures of the total project, i hope you will enjoy them.

The first thing that i made was the two blouses, de blue one for under the lace one.

 I used the pattern van Laughing Moon #104, i know that it originel made for a 1909-1913 dress, but the blouse should not come out of the jacket. So i dind't find it disturbing if the sleeves are not seen.

 So the whole project was an unusual one. I planned it a year before, but when the placements of the figurants interacted, and when they asked for a photograph of the whole costume before they gave you the place, i got a bit stressed. and the whole thing is made in only 3 full days, with only 5 hours a sleep per day. and jet, i got one of the last places. 

Here is was began on the jacket, i used the pattern of truly victorian  tv498. 

Here you see the pinning of de white bias that i made of taffeta. it was not realy a straight line.... it is thing where i must work on :p

 Here i began on the skirt, i used the truly victorian tv296, it is actually the 1895 ripple skirt, but i liked the form, and thats most of the reason why i choose this pattern and not a pattern that was meant for 1898.

i had some little adjustments so the skirt look like he had a front opening, but its actually a fake one :p

 Here the picture that i sent for the figurantion, here are the buttons not yet sewed. later on i made a belt because it felt empty on that spot.

after a difficult search for the buttons i want, i found them in the shop where i first taught the never had them. strange enough the sell only the gold ones here in the vicinity.

i bought a cheap strawhat in xenos (some store for household items and decorations in the netherlands) and pimp the whole thing with left overs, only the boat and the feathers where gathered. 

For the people with small heads, just like me, i fill the top with some tulle, because otherwise the hat drops over your ears.... pin it with a hatpin and you get never lost of this thing :p 

 This is a real antique handbag of my grand- grand- grandmother. (i hope that i used enoough grands...) oke, the thing is, this orginel is from the time that i made the costume.

it was black because the silver was not polished in ages, and some of the rings where missing. in the photo below you can see that i replaced with new ones, yes i can chain mail :3 never taught it was handy for ones.

 And sometimes you must be creative if you don't have many money. I made this thing from a ice spoon, one with a long helve, i bend it and so you have a hook where you can hang that little bag on youre skirt.

one day, i gonna buy a real one :p but for now, this thing is a really must have. all time hands free!

 I'm sorry for the one they thougt this where the shoes of the American Duchess (yes, i'm to a really big fan :p) but here is the ting, as student you don't have the mony to ship such expensive shoes. this are fake ones i them bought online by pleasershoes.nl. 

one day i buy the real ones :3 

So this is the post of my 1898 dress, it was for me a great adventure, and ik hope dat you enjoyed.